Kettle Valley Wine Dinner, Fall 2007

Kettle Valley Pinot Noir Vertical

Kettle Valley Pinot Noir Tasting, 2007

I have been looking forward to this tasting for some time now. Being a fan of Kettle Valley Pinot Noir for a few years I was excited to put them side by side and see the difference (if any?) and their development. I was not disappointed and the culinary creations of Chef Jeffrey Brandt gently coaxed the nuances into a beautiful balance.
The dinner started off with a look at the 2004 Viognier, this was our reception wine that brought us through our Amuse Bouche and the first course. The Viognier was taking on a light golden hue and the nose was dominated by fragrant hard candy notes. There was some great peach cotton candy that played against some apple and a hint of lemon. The palate showed consistency and balance from start to finish with an oily texture that coated your teeth. There was still a little heat on the finish but not excessive.
The amouse consisted of a fresh pacific halibut ceviche that was garnished with bruinoise of local asparagus and rhubarb. You may be thinking those are two unfriendly food components that do not play well with wine, but when they are cooked they don’t exhibit those astringent flavours. This course was designed more for texture than flavor, the curing acid in the ceviche eliminated any acid in the Viognier and together they gave the wine a very fat and heavy mouth feel emphasizing the melting texture of the halibut and the hard candy flavor in the wine.
The next course was still designed around Viognier as chef cold smoked some pacific black cod and slowly steam baked it to a minimal doneness. The result was a rich oily texture from the fish that dissolved on your tongue, it was truly decadent. This dish was paired with organic baby lettuces from Mariposa farms in the Similkemeen. These lettuces were lightly dressed in our black cherry vinaigrette and seasoned with a little salt and pepper. The oily textures from the food and wine worked with each other to bring out acid and fruit in the wine. When combined with the lettuce, it brought out a complex finish that consisted more of lemons. There was also a touch of crème friache on the plate that was used to ground the flavours and provide a palate cleanser as the wine was not big enough to cut through the dairy.
Time for Pinot Noir, we looked at the older vintages first and tasted the next three in a flight with the next course. We looked at the 1998, 1999, and 2001, all regular labels, not reserve. The 1998 started with a hint of brettanomyces (bret) with lots of dark rich black cherry notes. There was layers of smoke and earth and the color still showed only a little aging. I think there is still a couple more years of good life in this wine. The 1999 showed a bit more bret but with more layers of leather and cherry fruit. Not as dark cherried flavoured at the 98’ but very well built for a year that wasn’t as revered as big as the 98’. The 2001 held the most spice flavours with more presence of the dark cherry notes again. All of the wines held soft silky tannins with balance acidity across the board.
Chef designed a pork dish from which he sourced some Berkshire pork from Saskatchewan that was finished and butchered in Salmon Arm. The pork was simply seared and paired with a light red wine and cherry sauce. The plate was complimented with braised baby mustard greens and a red rice pilaf. Chef designed this dish to be very soft in flavours as to not over power the delicate and complex flavours from the wines. I thought the 1999 sung the loadest as its complexities really came through on the finish with the pork. The 2001 took on a beautiful complexity of spices with the sauce and all the wines used the pork to get a little more complex.
The next flight looked at three more pinot’s from the 2003 and 2004 vintages. We started with the 2003 reserve, then the 2004 reserve, and finally the 2004 Hayman vineyards label. All three of these wines showed great levels of concentration and structure. The big black cherry flavours dominated against the developing leather and sweet oak undertones. The Hayman vineyards label showed a different complexity of flavours that kept me coming back more than the others, but all of them shined with great finishes. The concentration of these wines cause them to taste hot, not as a fault in the wine, but as a sign of youngness that needs time to settle into all the flavours.
Chef designed a dish that would act a cooling agent with the wines. Using a beef short rib as the focal point, we were able to take advantage of the layers of marbling in the meat. This marbling would act as little cooling agents as the wine spent its time focusing on the natural fats, the mouth feel of the wine was allowed to express all its clean bright red fruit flavours. Chef slowly braised the short ribs in a red wine and stock liquid that was lightly scented with flavours we found in the wines like clove and cinnamon. This also helped bring out the bright fruit flavours in the wine and helped define the beautiful finishes of these young pinots.
We finished off the pinot’s with a local cheese course as we went back and reviewed all six of the wines and took one last look at an excellent vertical that expressed great consistency and terrior.
Our final course consisted of a 1998 Caboose. This is a late harvest chardonnay that showed a deep golden colour and a good level of tartaric crystals in the bottle. As the wine warmed up the rich raisin and apple pie flavours started to soften and take on a jam like character. Chef paired an upside down rhubarb cake with an orange scented Chantilly cream, garnished with candied orange peel. The rhubarb did take some flavor and body away from the wine, but when the cream, and candied peel where all tasted together the wine showed its complexity like a peacock strutting its feathers. This is the type of wine you wished there were more than 20 cases made.
Wine maker Tim Watts was present as he detailed each of the vintages we looked at. We conversed late into a wonderful evening that was only complimented by new friends as we talked about a growing wine industry and learned more about the passion and style behind Kettle Valley wines.

http://community.winepressnw.com/node/371

Recipe: The Risotto Experience

The most important aspect of cooking is to bring out the true flavours of ingredients. This is the meaning of the Italian verb ‘insaporire,’ or to make tasty according to Marcella Hazan, the New York based cookbook author. Risotto is a simple rice dish that depends on technique to achieve a satisfying, tasty, meal. The simple techniques to reach the full-flavour expression in risotto are applicable to a wide range of foodstuffs and cuisines. Fundamental requirements are the cooking medium (in fat, moisture, dry heat, etc.), the correct level of heat, time, careful observations, and the right cooking vessel. The key to risotto is constant stirring to bring out the creamy starches of the rice, which supplants the need for cream, extra butter or cheese.

Risotto Milanese for Two

½ c Italian Arborio rice

½ small cooking onion finely diced

2 tbsp finely chopped pancetta or prosciutto

½ c white wine

4 c stock, simmering

1/8 tsp saffron threads dissolved in ½ cup warm stock

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp unsalted butter

2 – 3 tbsp grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

sea salt

1. Cook the onion in the olive oil and a little butter, when very soft, add the pancetta

2. Add the rice; lightly season; allow the rice to get hot and toast; add the white wine; stir. (For par-cooked rice, start timer for 12 minutes)

3. When the wine has evaporated, add some stock and stir; keep stirring

4. At 12 minutes, empty pot to a tray to cook if you are par-cooking the risotto, other wise start adding the saffron stock

5. Keep stirring; start testing the texture of the rice; start adding less stock; keep stirring

6. When the texture is right remove from heat, stir in the butter and the cheese with great direction; let sit a minute or two and serve.

Stewardship and Culinary Tourism

Introduction

Culinary tourism is an established tourism sector in British Columbia rooted in the 1980’s “eco-gastronomy” of the Slow Food movement (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007) and the trend of food provenance menu descriptions (McNamee, 2007). The B.C. Ministry of Tourism, Culture and the Arts’ Tourism Action Plan (Action 32) will develop and implement a wine/cuisine/agri-tourism strategy to “increase visitation to and within BC where a primary motivator is B.C. wine, food, and agricultural experiences (Ministry of Tourism, Culture and the Arts 2007 p. 17).” Culinary tourism can be rural or urban, popular or exclusive (Wolf, 2006). More than just a restaurant meal (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007), or a stop at a fruit stand, culinary tourism embraces the exploration of food, drink, agriculture, artistry, industry, history, culture, education, and healthy lifestyle choices (Wolf, 2006; Bateman, 2008; Ignatov & Smith, 2006). “Culinary tourism is any tourism experience in which one learns about, appreciates, or consumes branded local culinary resources (Smith & Xiao, 2008, p. 289).”

Carlo Petrini’s call to fight global fast food and to reinforce “the importance of pleasure connected to food (Slow Food Canada, para 1)” coincided with famous restaurants using local food products and the rise of television and magazines that popularized culinary regions and styles (McNamee, 2007). From the renewed “sense of responsibility to the search for pleasure” (Slow Food Canada, para 1)” a whole new ideal of food service arose, based upon fresh, local, and seasonal food products (Wolf, 2006), and most importantly, clearly emphasizing the unique provenance of the food and wine (Ignatov & Smith, 2006). A new marketing strategy through menu narratives, select provenance, and artisanship emerged; through culinary tourism, customers had direct access to farmers, artisans, and wine makers and their products (Ignatov & Smith, 2006).

The end result of culinary tourism may seem to be a glass of well crafted wine on a winery terrace or a salad of just-harvested baby lettuces with local artisan goat cheese at a neighborhood cafe, but the real product has been the creation of a sector of cultural tourism that can lead the tourism industry in environmental stewardship, social capital, and ethical leadership, practices that enhance and even create tourism destinations. Leading entities, “rather than regarding social and environmental objectives as costs, … seeks opportunities for profit in achieving these goals (Dwyer, Jago, Deery, & Fredline, 2007, p. 155).” Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat and Guest House, and Hollyhock Centre exemplify best practices and excellence in their respective subsets of culinary tourism. By defining culinary tourism through their practices and accomplishments, a way forward to sustainability for other culinary tourist organizations can be found.

Environmental

Stewardship

*

*

Expanding * Community

Prosperity… * …Development

*

Culinary

Tourism

* *

* *

* *

Social * * Ethical

Capital Leadership

:

:

Sustainable

Competitiveness

Figure 1: Diagram of the linkages between stewardship practices of culinary tourism entities (in bold) and the possible outcomes (in italics) of these practices for their respective destinations.

Environmental Stewardship

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery near Oliver in the south Okanagan Valley has grown quickly from it’s beginnings as a newly planted vineyard in 1993, to establishing itself as an Okanagan estate winery in 1998, to it’s present incarnation as a premier culinary tourism destination with a fine dining restaurant and a boutique hotel that opened in 2007 (Burrowing Owl Estate Winery). Situated on the bench land above the valley at the northern reach of the Sonoran desert, the vineyard straddles mountain, dry grassland and riparian eco-systems, all of which are sensitive to change. Since its inception the winery has been “integrating core principles (Dwyer et al., 2007 p. 155)” of sustainability in the environment in which it is located while it produced highly sought after wines (Schreiner, 2004). The Wyse family has chosen to operate in harmony with the environment, encouraging natural systems within modern agricultural practices in a sensitive and endangered ecosystem; “balance,” states founder Jim Wyse, “underlies the viticulture and enological practices (Burrowing Owl Estate Winery).” Agricultural processes include composting, grass covered vineyard rows, enhancing natural pest control (bats and birds), drip irrigation, and crop sprayers that recapture lost spray (Burrowing Owl Estate Winery). Underground wine storage, gravity-aided winery facilities and geo-thermal water heating lower energy costs and improve the wine through temperature consistency and unnecessary over-pumping of the wine (Gamble). The hotel and restaurant use solar heated hot water and geo-thermal heating and cooling (Gamble). The restaurant buys local agricultural products as much as possible, which is reflected on the menu, and supports fair pricing for the farmer (B. Gartrell, personal communication on October 12, 2008).

While growing vines is a new use for this land, the bench land has a history as agricultural grazing land. Change and environmental decline, especially in the river valley and the corridors from mountain to valley floor have been impacted by past and currant agriculture. Among the many endangered or extirpated species in the region is the burrowing owl, the emblem of the winery. The small owl has served not only as a ‘cute critter’ for its wine labels but also as an ongoing eco-project that uses the fees collected from wine tasting to help fund the burrowing owl restoration project through the Land Conservancy of British Columbia and the South Okanagan Rehabilitation Centre for Owls (Burrowing Owl Estate Winery). This narrative of sipping fine wine and helping cute owls fills out the experience of wine tasting for tourists (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007). As Mason and O’Mahony suggest, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery has created a successful tourist product from a “marketing mechanism (2007, p. 510).” Tourists learn about the owls, the vineyard and the wine, but it is the winery’s success at its core business that has allowed it to succeed and diversify from a winery to become a culinary tourism destination.

What “management practices promote positive outcomes or mitigate negatives (Dwyer et al., 2007 p. 162)” associated with the wine industry and related tourism? Land use changes, water usage, agricultural chemicals, and the energy-inefficient traditional glass wine bottles are all challenges to sustainability faced by wineries. Sustainable environmental practices can be determined, measured, and acted upon, but it is more difficult to measure the behavior and desires of tourists in relation to a destination (Dwyer et al., 2007). Burrowing Owl Estate Winery may have found stewardship and balance with land use and the best way to grow grapes and make desired wines in traditional glass bottles, but it also spent time figuring out what the tourist wanted in a destination and how to best market that and get tourists to a rural destination. It has attracted top-level wine-makers for the winery and top-level executive chefs for the restaurant. It has built and operates a top -evel restaurant and hotel. Other Okanagan wineries support environmental causes related to their land (rattle snakes and N’Kmip Cellars; spadefoot toads and Spadefoot Toad Vineyards); some open restaurants and guest houses (Hester Creek Winery); many operate in eco-positive ways or use bio-dynamic methods of agriculture (Blue Mountain Winery and Vineyards); and most find a narrative to relate some uniqueness in their product to tourists (Blasted Church Winery and N’Kmip Cellars). Judging from these comparative practices and marketing ideas at other Okanagan wineries that have emulated Burrowing Owl, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery had identified and defined what tourists want (Dwyer et al., 2007) in a culinary destination in the Okanagan from the beginning, starting with the narrative of the burrowing owl. Following land stewardship and sustainability practices and then marketing the results of those practices, along with notable wines, has put Burrowing Owl Estate Winery in a position of “sustainable competitiveness (Ritchie & Couch, 2000, p. 1)” as an esteemed culinary tourism destination.

Social Capital

Fairburn Farm in the Cowichan Valley has deep roots in the farming culture of Vancouver Island from its origin as a homestead in the 1880’s. Still a productive farm, it includes heritage breed sheep, a herd of water buffalo, vegetable gardens and the Culinary Retreat and Guesthouse at Fairburn Farm operated by chef Mara Jernigan, currently president of Slow Food Canada (Fairburn Farm). The farm and cooking school is one of many businesses that together have made the Cowichan Valley a culinary tourism destination (Bateman, 2008). The Culinary Retreat is more than just cooking classes; the chef puts the history and agriculture of the Cowichan Valley, from field to table, into the lessons. “You ingest the message of cooking locally,” she says (M. Jernigan, private communication, December 8, 2008). It is not about lecturing on the ills of long-distance food, but about the “experience that is transformational” in eating good fresh food (Jernigan). “There is a new opportunity to change food and agricultural practices” through food education and the enjoyment of eating (Jernigan). The classes she teaches involve local food and Cowichan Valley producers of food products, a linkage between different entities delivering different parts of the tourism experience (Ignatov & Smith, 2006), capitalizing on the social and cultural strengths of the region (Bateman, 2008). There is an exchange of knowledge and learning between stakeholders and tourists. There is a desire by the community to expand the local food system and at the same time, shorten the food supply chain. “We need to learn more about the food, so the logic of sustainability will prevail (Jernigan).”

Ritchie and Couch (2000) raise the question of what tourism means to an area or other culinary destinations: is it just a business opportunity or does it include social and cultural ties that involve the community (p.3)? The Cowichan Valley markets itself as a culinary destination. Farms, bakeries, cheese makers and other food suppliers flourish (Bateman, 2008); many participate in the Fairburn Farm classes or supply ingredients (Fairburn Farm). They are stakeholders in the local food supply chain and are part of the vision “to nurture appropriate forms of development (Ritchie & Couch, 2000 p. 4).” When chef Jernigan seeks to create a few great local dishes, she is participating in a “product development strategy by which destinations identify and promote attractions and imagery associated with cuisine (Ignatov & Smith, 2006, p. 239).” “The famous dishes of the world, they taste of the place” they are made, says Jernigan. Using local foods adds value to the products of local producers and a cultural identity to the destination (Du Rand & Heath, 2006). Jernigan’s work involves the community and its resources in a cultural practice (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006) of making local food a destination experience, which is “the fundamental product in tourism (Ritchie & Couch 2000 p. 1).” The ties of Fairburn Farm to its location, community, and history give it what Williams, Gill, and Ponsford call a social license to operate, a relationship between stakeholders that “ensure[s] effective product delivery and visitor satisfaction (2007, p. 134).” Together they search for the true expression of the Cowichan Valley cuisine (Jernigan) and attract a very desirable tourist segment to the rural location (Ignatov & Smith, 2006) because of it.

Ethical Leadership

Hollyhock Centre on remote Cortez Island, B.C. has taken a potential challenge in location and turned it into a prime feature of the destination, not only for the quiet beauty of its surroundings, but for the unique and healthy culinary experience that is a key part of the centre’s mission statement. “Hollyhock exists to inspire, nourish and support people who are making the world better (Hollyhock).” Hollyhock Centre is a destination resort and conference centre with amenities that include healthy local food, recreation, spa and health facilities and a very strong educational and spiritual component for personal, professional and organizational growth. While not principally a culinary tourism destination, food and food culture play a large part in the ethical leadership principles of Hollyhock. The centre’s remote island location has created a need for self-sufficiency and facilitated local agriculture and an island fishery. The centre has a large garden; off island supplies are kept to a minimum (Welcome to Hollyhock). The meals at Hollyhock are vegetarian, supplemented by locally caught seafood. “This rich local culture, culinary genius and the pristine natural environment provide ongoing inspiration for Hollyhock’s cooks.” (Welcome to Hollyhock, p. 5) The ‘eco-gastronomy’ fits perfectly with the centre’s objectives to meet the health and nutritional needs of its participants and the economic needs of the local community through purchases and employment. The food system becomes part of the process of change, what Hollyhock CEO Dana Bass Solomon says are part of the “tools of change, cultivating a more sustainable vision and enlightened behavior (quoted in Grey, 2007, p. 109).” For Hollyhock to be a leader of change, to be stewards of a better world, includes the choice of the food people eat, “and in so doing, show themselves to be morally trustworthy (Colonomos, 2005, p. 460).”

Ethical stewardship, according to Caldwell, Hayes, Ranjan and Bernal (2008), suggests operators choose actions and plans that best suit the stakeholders and the community; it is the “’covenantal’ nature of the leader’s role (p. 154)” in ethical stewardship to act in ways to earn the trust of stakeholders and communities (Caldwell et al., 2008). To lead the way to a better world (Hollyhock), all parts of the destination need to be in alignment with the stated objectives of the organization. “Leadership rises to the level of ethical stewardship when leaders earn the trust and followership of those whom they serve creating integrated organizational systems that demonstrate the leader’s commitment to honoring the steward’s duties (Caldwell et al., 2008, p. 157).” It seems natural that healthy food, grown in local gardens that meet ethical and sustainable criteria, would be the only possibility for food at Hollyhock. “The contribution that Hollyhock makes was increasing in its necessity and its importance,” said Joel Solomon, Hollyhock board president and a partner in Hollyhock (quoted in Smith, 2007 p. 20).” “The world was opening up to more social and ecological values (quoted in Smith, 2007, p. 20).” Dwyer et al. (2007) state that stewardship leads to future benefits; there is profit in the sustainability of resources (p. 155), or in the case of Hollyhock, in the destination, its stakeholders, and the changing world.

The example of Hollyhock Centre for other destinations is that culinary accomplishments need not be necessarily exclusive or singular, but need to be aligned with core principles of ethical leadership, including stewardship and ecological sustainability, that in the words of Colonomos (2005) “excludes chasing at all costs a profit likely to endanger the survival of the planet and the fulfillment of human potential (p. 460).” Success has led Hollyhock to begin classes in Vancouver, not from the limitations of its location on Cortez Island, but for the potential of further meeting its aims as a leader of change for individuals and organizations. The original goal in 1982 was to be a sustainable enterprise and offer educational classes (Smith, 2007, p. 20) on Cortez Island, but the example of leadership in the stewardship of land and community, and the identification of a place with nourishment has produced a powerful interaction that now extends from the remote island to a large urban city.

Conclusion

Great food has the ability to create a memorable experience (Du Rand & Heath, 2006) and it is an “important part of the overall destination experience (Du Rand & Heath, 2006, p. 209).” Analyzing three successful businesses that have been pioneers in their areas of culinary tourism destinations has shown that environmental stewardship, social capital, and ethical leadership have played key roles in “the honouring of duties owed to employees, stakeholders, and society in the pursuit of long-term wealth creation (Caldwell et al., 2008 p. 153).” Burrowing Owl Estate Winery has used sustainable environmental practices to further the marketing of itself as a culinary destination in addition to its core business success as a premier winery. Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat and Guest House has built social capital in its contribution to the Cowichan Valley as a culinary tourism destination, building food systems and value-added products for the community and tourists alike. Hollyhock Centre has earned the trust of its learners through honouring its mission statement and community through its commitment to local healthy food and ethical leadership for global change. What these examples provide to other culinary tourism operators is what Colonomos (2005), called “a belief in enrichment through honesty (p. 458), that sustainability, trust and clear operating principles can lead to prosperity (Colonomos, 2005).

Culinary tourism, combined with stewardship practices, is a powerful way of ensuring a competitive advantage in destination marketing (Du Rand & Heath, 2006) combining natural eco-systems, culture, industry, and the pleasure of food and drink. Ignatov and Smith (2006) note that, coupled with consumer behaviour, culinary tourism is a “product development strategy by which destinations identify and promote attractions and imagery associated with food (p. 239)” for the benefit of local producers. If natural, wholesome and culturally significant food and drink are involved with a destination, so is the possibility of establishing a sustainable culinary destination (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006). Where eating in a restaurant ends and culinary tourism begins can be uncertain, but the connection with local agricultural production (Wolf, 2006), an exchange of knowledge (Ignatov & Smith, 2006), and a sense of the experience being uniquely placed culturally and socially (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006) set culinary tourism apart from a regular dining experience. Sustainable culinary tourism “actualize[s] the synergy of food, wine, and tourism (Mason & O’Mahony p. 505 )” to the benefit of eco-systems, communities and destinations.

References

Bateman, J. (2008, Summer). Cowichan Valley: Where the foodies roam. Westworld. 34(2). Toronto. Canada Wide Media.

B.C. Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Arts. (2007, Februaruy). Tourism Action Plan. Retrieved on 20 September, 2008. http://www.tsa.gov.bc.ca/tourism/docs/Action_Plan.pdf

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery. (n.d.). Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.bovwine.ca/policy.html

Caldwell, C., Hayes, L., Bernal, P., Karri, R. (2008). Ethical Stewardship - Implications for Leadership and Trust. Journal of Business Ethics. 78(1-2), 153-164.

Colonomos, A. (2005, September). The morality of belief in the profits of virtue. International Social Science Journal. 57(185), 457-467. Retrieved October 30, 2008. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2451.2005.00563.x

Du Rand, G., & Heath, E. (2006, June). Towards a Framework for Food Tourism as an Element of Destination Marketing. Current Issues in Tourism, 9(3), 206-234.

Dwyer, L., Jago, L., Deery, M., Fredline, L. (2007). Corporate Responsibility as Essential to Sustainable Tourism Yield. Tourism Review International, Volume 11, Number 2, 2007, pp. 155-166(12).

Fairburn Farm: Culinary Retreat and Guesthouse. (n.d.). Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca/history.htm

Gamble, D. (n.d.). Canadian Grapes to Wine. Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.bovwine.ca/davidgamble-geothermalarticle-10-06.pdf

Grey, J. (2007, July August). Retreat to Cortes. Avenue Magazine. Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.hollyhock.ca/cms/File/pdf/Avenue_Magazine_Retreat_July_Aug_07(1).pdf

Hashimoto, A., & Telfer, D. (2006, February). Selling Canadian Culinary Tourism: Branding the Global and the Regional Product. Tourism Geographies. 8(1), 31-55. doi:10.1080/14616680500392465

Hollyhock. (n.d.). Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.hollyhock.ca/cms/page1599.cfm

Ignatov, E., & Smith, S. (2006, June). Segmenting Canadian Culinary Tourists. Current Issues in Tourism. 9(3), 235-255.

Mason, R., & O'Mahony, B. (2007, July). On the Trail of Food and Wine: The tourist search for meaningful experience. Annals of Leisure Research. 10(3/4), 498-517.

McNamee, T. (2007). Alice Waters and Chez Panisse. New York. Penguin Books.

Ritchie, J. R. B., Couch, G. I., (2000). The competitive destination: A sustainability perspective. Tourism Management. 21 1-7 doi:10.1016/S0261-5177(99)00093-X

Schreiner, J. (2004). The Wineries of British Columbia. North Vancouver. Whitecap Books.

Slow Food Canada. (n.d.). Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.slowfood.ca/index.php

Smith, C. (2007, Spring). Building Hollyhocks Legacy. Georgia Straight. Vancouver. Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.hollyhock.ca/cms/File/pdf/Spring2007_GeorgiaStraightMBS_HH.pdf

Smith, S., & Xiao, H. (2008, February). Culinary Tourism Supply Chains: A Preliminary Examination. Journal of Travel Research. 46(3), 289-299.

Welcome to Hollyhock. (n.d.) Retrieved on December 7, 2008. http://www.newsociety.com/titleimages/hhc_welcome.pdf

Williams, P., Gill, A., Ponsford, I. (2007). Corporate Social Responsibility at Tourism Destinations: Toward a Social License to Operate. Tourism Review International. Volume 11, Number 2, 2007.

Wolf, E. (2006). Culinary Tourism: The Hidden Harvest. Portland, Oregon. International Culinary Tourism Association.

Food and Wine Tourism in the Experience Economy: A Literature Review

Introduction

Food and wine tourism has become a significant part of the growing tourism industry as affluent baby boomers become “less destination oriented and more experience-oriented.” (Ontario Ministry of Tourism, 2008, p.13). Meeting the demands for new food and wine tourism produces benefits for agricultural producers, individual businesses, and local economies “as it matures the wine sector, cultivates a ‘buy local’ culture, and reinvents the way agricultural produce is delivered to the consumer” (Stewart, Bramble, & Ziraldo, 2006, p. 303). From beverage tasting to farm tours to cooking classes, food and wine tourism is about experiences. (O’Neil & Palmer, 2004; Hall & Mitchel, 2007; du Rand & Heath, 2006) How does one of Maslow’s basic needs for survival, food, (Anderson, 2007) become elevated to an experience that “can be performed, narrated, displayed or somehow contained within the producer-consumer exchange” (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007, p. 512)? Through food and wine tourism in the experience economy, sensory experiences, “the element connecting production and consumption” (Anderson, 2007, p. 47), raise food and wine “to novelty, incongruity, and complexity” (Anderson, 2007, p. 51). Current literature about food and wine tourism establishes a strong foundation within the experience economy, reflecting tangible experiences and economic engagement through cooperative and competitive culinary clusters.

The Experience Economy

Literature about food and wine tourism shows strong links to the experience economy (Hall & Mitchell 2005; Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006; O’Neil & Palmer, 2004; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Pine and Gilmour (1999) identified the shift in the economy from commodities to services to experiences. Global competitiveness, new technologies, growing affluence and the challenge to remain profitable have led to a larger part of the economy being based on memorable experiences rather than commodities or services. In the experience economy, buying a coffee in a bookstore café, amid a cultural and entertainment backdrop, “establishes a distinct experience that envelops the purchase of coffee” (Pine & Gilmour, 1999, p. 1). The experience is different from buying other cups of coffee in other retail outlets. Differentiation through memorable experience is “the competitive edge required for survival and growth” (O’Neil & Palmer, 2004, p. 272) in the progression of economic values. The literature shows that experiences, especially new experiences, are now the final out-put of economic production (Anderson, 2007; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Like the bookstore coffee, memorable experiences are the ‘wow’ factor of engaged and sensory interactions beyond any practical need for the senses to be utilized (Florida, 2002; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Consumer decisions become based upon anticipation (Florida, 2002; Pikkemaat & Schuckert, 2007), complex cultural needs (Anderson, 2007), or engagement of the senses (Anderson, 2007; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Whether the participation in the experience is active or passive, educational or entertaining, the engaged experience is “distinct from the normally uneventful world of goods and services” (Pine & Gilmour, 1999, p. 10).

The Tangible Experience

One theme of the experience economy explored in the literature of food and wine tourism is the tangible experience (Florida, 2002; Hall & Mitchell 2005; O’Neil & Palmer, 2004; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Under the service economy, many experiences are intangible; they are everyday, banal, and whether they are practical or not, are in no way memorable (Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Intangible experiences can also be a part of tourism where the unknown qualities of the product, the uncertainty of the weather or the boredom of an unremarkable journey leave the tourist unengaged and hoping for the best (Pine & Gilmour, 1999; Weirmair, 2004). Florida (2002) attests to the desire for intense experiences in the real world where creativity and anticipation are significant attributes of the experience economy. To achieve the “imaginative hedonism” (Florida, 2002, p. 167) of the tangible experience, Pine and Gilmour (1999) suggest establishing an experience that will capture active participation and cause absorption or immersion in another dimension of experience via aesthetics, entertainment, education or escapism. Whatever the experience outcome, the literature suggests that the desire to continue the experience, to remember it, to intensely relive it, leads to the purchase of mementos or products associated with the experience (Hall & Mitchell 2005; O’Neil & Palmer, 2004; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). The better the experience, the more mementos will be purchased, reflecting the added value process of the experience economy (Pine & Gilmour, 1999).

Food and wine tourism is built upon the tangible experience. One example is vineyard and winery tours and tastings (Hall & Mitchell 2005; O’Neil & Palmer, 2004). Experiences ranging from the anticipation of the visit to a famous or unknown winery, the taste of a new vintage, barrel samples in the cellar, meeting the wine-maker, purchased wine to be re-experienced again at home, or finally, buying the wine at the local liquor store post-visit, are part of the tangible wine experience. Marquee restaurants have also become adept at continuing the experience of a highly anticipated and memorable dinner through customer preference data-base reservation systems (Open Table), by selling cookbooks, take-away ingredients, and souvenirs, and by providing on-line recipes or promoting exclusive cooking lessons with the chef. Anderson (2007) suggests a fine dinner is more than nourishment; there is social engagement and the lasting stimulus of the new and innovative experience. As pointed out in the literature, when the relationship between the product and the experience is strong, the potential for re-experiencing it afterwards through products, mementos or purchases, is greatest (Hall & Mitchell 2005; O’Neil & Palmer, 2004; Pine & Gilmour, 1999).

Food and Wine Clusters

If the experience economy is where food and wine tourism is situated, then the sensory experience is enriched by the strengths and attributes of the experience location, the place within the place (Pine & Gilmour, 1999; Stewart et al., 2006). One theme that runs through the literature is the benefit of cooperation among clusters of entities in the experience economy (Hall & Mitchell, 2005; du Rand & Heath 2006; Porter, 2000). One lone vineyard or an isolated cheese-

Local Hospitality, Restaurant, and Accommodation Sector Annual Local Product Festival Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting Agricultural and Artisan Producers and Markets Food and Wine Narrative in the Experience Economy Local Demand Conditions Related and Supporting Industries

Regional Food and Wine Cluster

^

^

^

Food and wine tourists seeking memorable experiences

Figure 1: An illustration of a food and wine cluster anchored in the experience economy through a local narrative, supported by local demand conditions, and attracting tourists seeking memorable experiences. Adapted from Porter (2000).

maker is less of an attraction experience than several related firms offering more experiences (Plummer, Telfer & Hashimoto, 2006). The local benefit of sustainable growth in economic clusters is wide spread in the literature. Porter (2000) records the benefits of the Napa Valley wine cluster, in which the tourism sector was but one small part of the dynamic and successful mix of related and supporting industries. Many other regions from Waterloo, Ontario to New Zealand have found the synergies of food and wine tourism playing a “vital role in regional tourism development, employment generation, business growth, and corporate investment” (O’Neil & Palmer, 2004, p. 270). An enhanced experience will arise from a cluster of entities; their proximity enhances the experience (Porter, 2000). Their cooperation portends the success of a region, as it is not so much what one entity itself has, but what the cluster can do together (Plummer et al., 2006; Porter, 2000). This adds brand recognition to the relationship between the terroir of production, the enjoyment of the product and the region’s identity (Hall & Mitchell, 2005; du Rand & Heath, 2006). A cluster of entities “reinforces the relationship between the environment in which food is produced and the development of destination image and brand” (Hall & Mitchell, 2005, p. 86). The literature concludes that establishing a definitive brand through the cluster, leads to strong representations, where the food and wine tourist make immediate connections between product, region, and experience for example, the wines of Burgundy or the cuisine of New Orleans (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006; Plummer et al., 2006).

A second theme in the literature related to the success of food and wine tourism clusters involves the development of a narrative about individual entities or the region as a whole. Many authors state the story sells the experience; the engagement of the narrative and the connection with the sensory experience produces a meaningful interaction between people, places and products (Anderson, 2007; Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006; Mason & O’Mahony, 2007; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). Narratives fill out the experience, as “food is associated with people, and people with food” (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007, p. 507). Connecting the farmer, the winemaker, or the chef with a product, an event or a region, establishes authenticity (Pikkemaat & Schuckert, 2007), creates trust, and delivers a memorable experience (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007; Pine & Gilmour, 1999). The narrative combines with the sensory experience, to be fully engaging and potentially fruitful for all participants (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007; Plummer et al., 2006). In the literature, narratives enhance the authentic, meaningful and engaging experiences, significant factors in personal fulfilment in the experience economy (du Rand & Heath, 2006; Florida, 2002; Pikkemaat & Schuckert, 2007)

A third theme regarding clusters relates to the delineation of a food and wine region or cluster. The authors contend that there should be some logic to the border of a cluster or region (Hashimoto & Telfer 2006; Plummer et al., 2006; Porter, 2000). A cluster that is too exclusive may not generate the benefits of rivalry and cooperation or demand conditions (Porter, 2000). Spread too wide or too inclusive, the cluster will lack integrity. As with water poured into wine, there will be no flavour to the actual identity of the cluster (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006). Borders, for example, could be based on an easy day’s travel, historical production areas or on the narrative that links specific entities together (Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006). Plummer et al. (2006) found that a clear definition of a region was a significant competitive advantage; challenges occur when there is a lack of focus on what constitutes the region or cluster and therefore, what defines the brand. Within the region, there is “a need to better understand indicators of success of partnerships” (Plummer et al., 2006, p. 202) including the borders of the region.

Food and Wine Tourism Activities	Aesthetic	Entertain-ment	Educa-tional
Farmers markets/farm stands	x	x	x
Farm tours		x	x
Artisan products (cheese, bread, preserves, etc.), tours and retail sales	x		x
Restaurants/cafes	x	x
Cooking schools			x
Vineyards/wineries tours and tastings	x	x	x
Breweries/cideries tours and tastings	x	x	x
Museums/historic sites		x	x
Harbours/fisherman’s wharf		x	x
Industry tours		x	x
Agricultural stays/retreats		x	x
Agricultural Festivals		x	x

Figure 2: Some possible food and wine tourism activities and the type of experience they generate. Adapted from Pine and Gilmour (1999).

Innovation in Food and Wine Tourism

The literature is inconclusive on the ability of food and wine tourism to successfully create new and innovative experiences and products (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007; Plummer et al., 2006). Some authors suggest cooperation and rivalry among local entities will lead to innovation and competitive advantage (Porter, 2000; Hashimoto & Telfer, 2006). Porter (2000) states, “in a cluster, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts” (p. 32). Through cooperative relationships between entities come regional strategies, product linkages, niche products and inter-regional business to enhance the food and wine experience. Creating new products like food and wine trails that enhance the tourism product and sell more goods to the region makes sense for all the entities in the cluster (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007). Cooperation within a region will enhance the experience and marketing potential for “product development, packaging, positioning, and the promotions of the product” (du Rand & Heath 2006, p. 209). This is especially important for some small and medium enterprises, which may lack the resources or current knowledge to create innovative products (Pikkemaat & Weiermair, 2007; Plummer et al, 2006). Plummer et al. (2006) suggest that when cooperative ideas are in alignment, the result will be “a positive collaborative relationship in which all benefit[ed]” (p.198) in the creation of a sustainable competitive strategy for regional growth (Pikkemaat & Weiermair 2007).

However, there are questions raised by some authors about how innovative, truly aligned or long lasting the relationships within the cluster actually can be (Pikkemaat & Weiermair, 2007; Plummer et al, 2006). Their studies indicate short-term growth and innovation through cooperation. After a few years, the cooperative product is no longer successful in producing benefits for all the businesses in the cluster. Similarities and alliances between competitive entities produced only minor innovations (Pikkemaat & Weiermair 2007). In the case of the Wellington-Waterloo County Ale Trail, the relationship of brewers and related businesses collapsed after several successful and popular years (Plummer et al., 2006). Changes in the outlook and needs of the different members (brewers and non-brewers), funding challenges and leadership problems contributed to the demise (Plummer et al., 2006). Plummer et al. (2006) suggest “incompatibility of intentions, competitiveness among members and unclear/altered goals” (p. 198) were a product of immediate success and a lack of reflection on the broader goals of the cluster. The literature suggests there is very large challenge in bringing together competing, individual entities to work together in a tourist product; maintaining profitability, providing tourism services and selling a retail product is a challenging mix (Mason & O’Mahony, 2007; Pikkemaat & Weiermair, 2007).

Areas for Further Research

Within this literature about food and wine tourism in the experience economy, there are several areas for more study.

• Identify the culinary tourist. Are they baby boomers with money and leisure time, the New Economic Order (NEOs) seeking new, innovative experiences, or the Cultural Creatives building enriched communities of like-minded people?
• Establish support for food and wine tourism. Combining public and private support for product innovation and profitability. Can the mix of competing small enterprises, entrepreneurialism, and DMOs be combined to reach a broad regional goal?
• Maintain the “wow” experience. Once a “market ready” product is established, how do we keep it current as a fresh, sustainable experience?

Conclusion

Current literature places food and wine tourism within the experience economy, where memorable and novel experiences are important and “the value of the experience lingers in the memory of any individual who was engaged by the event” (Pine & Gilmour, 1999, p.4). As shown in the literature, food and wine tourism, through its multi-sensory experiences becomes a tangible tourism experience. Aligning the experience with a product, a place, and people through mechanisms of narratives, product branding, and local cooperation can enhances the potential for sustainable regional growth and authentic and memorable experiences.

References

Andersson, T. (2007, March). The Tourist in the Experience Economy. Scandinavian Journal of Hospitality & Tourism. 7(1), 46-58. Retrieved February 23, 2009. doi:10.1080/15022250701224035

Du Rand, G., and Heath, E. (2006, June). Towards a Framework for Food Tourism as an Element of Destination Marketing. Current Issues in Tourism. 9(3). 206-234.

Florida, R. (2002). The Experiential Life. In The Rise of the Creative Class. (Ch. 10, pp. 165-189). New York, Basic Books.

Hall, D.M. and Mitchell, R. (2005). Gastronomic Tourism: Comparing food and wine tourism experiences. In Novelli, M. E. (Ed.), Niche Tourism: Contemporary issues, trends and cases. (pp. 73-88). Oxford UK: Butterworth-Heinemann.

Hashimoto, A., and Telfer, D. (2006, February). Selling Canadian Culinary Tourism: Branding the Global and the Regional Product. Tourism Geographies. 8(1). 31-55. doi:10.1080/14616680500392465

Jackson, J., and Murphy, P. (2006). Clusters in regional tourism: An Australian case. Annals of Tourism Research, 33(4). 1035doi:10.1016/j.annals.2006.04.005

Mason, R., and O'Mahony, B. (2007, July). On the Trail of Food and Wine: The tourist search for meaningful experience. Annals of Leisure Research. 10(3/4), 498-517.

O’Neil, M., and Palmer, A. (2006). Wine Production and Tourism: Adding Service to a Perfect Partnership. Cornell Hotel and Restaurant Administration Quarterly. 47(4), 369-381. DOI: 10.1177/0010880406289992

Ontario Ministry of Tourism. (2008). Mapping Ontario’s Tourism Future: a starting point for discussion. Retrieved January 21, 2008. http://www.tourismstudy.ca/en/dp_interactive_form.pdf

Pikkemaat, B., and Schuckert, M. (2007, June). Success factors of theme parks - An exploratory study. Tourism. 55(2), 197-208. Retrieved January 8, 2009.

Pikkemaat, B., and Weiermair, K. (2007). Innovation through Cooperation in Destinations: First Results of an Empirical Study in Austria. Anatolia: an International Journal of Tourism and Hospitality Research. 18(1). Retrieved January 8, 2009.

Pine II, B.J., and Gilmore, J.H. (1999). The Experience Economy: work is theatre and every business a stage. (E-book). Boston, MA, Harvard Business School Press. Retrieved March 1 – 12, 2009.

Plummer, R., Telfer, D., and Hashimoto, A. (2006, June). The Rise and Fall of the Waterloo-Wellington Ale Trail: A Study of Collaboration within the Tourism Industry. Current Issues in Tourism. 9(3). 191-205. Retrieved December 15, 2008.

Porter, M. (2000). Location, Competition, and Economic Development: Local Clusters in a Global Economy. Economic Development Quarterly. 14(1). 15-34. Retrieved on January 25, 2009

Ritchie, J. R. B., Couch, G. I., (2000). The competitive destination: A sustainability perspective. Tourism Management. 21. 1-7 doi:10.1016/S0261-5177(99)00093-X

Stewart, J. A., Bramble, L., and Ziraldo, D. (2008) Key Challenges in Wine and Culinary Tourism with Practical Recommendations. International Journal of Contemporary Hospitality Management. 20(3). Retrieved December, 16, 2008.

Weiermair, K. (2004). Product Improvement or Innovation: What is the key to success in tourism? OECD. Retrieved January 8, 2009.